These brats make for a perfect snack before dinner.

For the bratwurst spice:
• 1⁄4 cup black peppercorns
• 1⁄4 cup fennel seeds
• 1⁄4 cup coriander seeds
• 1⁄4 cup white peppercorns
For the sausage:
• 5 lb. wild boar shoulder
• 2 lb. pork fatback
• 1⁄3 cup bratwurst spice
• 5 Tbsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tbsp. olive oil
• 2 oz. garlic, chopped
• 8 oz. jalapeño, chopped
• 2 lb. cheddar cheese, diced into 1⁄2-inch cubes
• 1 lb. shredded American cheese
• Hog casings, soaked in water

1. Make the bratwurst spice: Working in batches, toast all of the ingredients in a sauté pan on medium-low to low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the spices are toasted and fragrant. Remove from heat, allow to cool, and grind the mixture in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Stored in a jar, this spice mixture will keep for several months.
2. Cut the boar meat and pork fatback into 2-inch cubes. Place the meat into a large bowl, add the bratwurst spice and salt, and mix thoroughly. Let the meat marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.
3. Before you grind the meat, place all of the metal components of your meat grinder and a large bowl in the freezer for about 30 minutes.
4. Grind the meat through a medium die into the chilled bowl. Grind the meat a second time through a fine die. (Note: Depending on how long the first grind takes, you might need to place the metal grinder components back in the freezer for about 15 minutes before you proceed with the second grind.) Once you’re finished, place the meat in the refrigerator to chill.
5. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat, and gently cook the garlic and jalapeños until they’re slightly translucent. All you want to do here is reduce the intensity of the ingredients so they don’t overpower the sausage. Remove the garlic-pepper mixture from heat, and set aside to cool.
6. Take the ground meat out of the refrigerator, and add both cheeses and the cooled garlic-jalapeño mixture, and combine thoroughly with your hands.
7. Emulsify the sausage: Add about 2 cups of ice water, a bit at a time, to the meat, and mix vigorously with your hands for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the meat takes on a tacky texture and begins to stick to the sides of the bowl. Cook a small patty of the sausage and adjust the seasoning as needed. Let the meat rest, covered, for an hour in the refrigerator.
8. Stuff the meat into the casings, forming 4- to 5-inch links. Prick any air bubbles in the sausage with the point of a paring knife or toothpick. Place the sausages on a sheet pan and let them sit, uncovered, in the refrigerator overnight. At this point, you can snip the casing between each link, and the sausage can be cooked or frozen.
How should I serve them?
Traditionally, you’d simmer bratwurst in a mixture of beer and onions, which is a killer cooking method. But I prefer mine smoked and then finished on the grill. Serve them on a toasted bun with sauerkraut or grilled onions and peppers and a grainy mustard, or slice the links and enjoy them as a happy-hour snack. A funky cider pairs well with these brats.