1 bunch (6 large) scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced 2 (16-ounce) bags coleslaw mix or 1 (16-ounce) bag each of shredded green and shredded red cabbage 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1/4 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger (from about a 1-inch piece) 2 tablespoons white vinegar 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, optional 1 teaspoon salt 20 grinds black pepper

Rough up the scallion slices a little with your fingers so all the little layers of the scallion whites separate. Toss the coleslaw mix or both kinds of cabbage, the red onion and scallions together in a large bowl until everything is thoroughly mixed. You can make the slaw up to this point up to a day in advance as long as you keep it refrigerated. Before serving, simply bring the slaw back to room temperature, make the dressing and toss.
Stir the remaining ingredients together in a small bowl until blended, then pour over the vegetables. Serve within 1 hour of dressing or the cabbage will get wilty and sad.